Tuesday, 28 August 2018

My lovely designer- Moschino

Moschino (Italian pronunciation: [mosˈkiːno]) is an Italian luxury fashion house, specialising in leather accessories, shoes, luggage and fragrances. It was founded in 1983 by Franco Moschino.

History
Founding and 1990s
The brand was originally created in 1983 by the late Franco Moschino (1950–1994). Moschino and his fashion label became famous for his innovative, colorful – sometimes eccentric – designs, for his love of fairies, for his criticisms of the fashion industry and for his social awareness campaigns in the early 1990s. After Moschino's death, Rossella Jardini, his former assistant, became creative director. The brand has been part of the Aeffe fashion group since 1999.

Moschino today
Rossella Jardini was Moschino’s Creative Director from 1994 to October 2013. Responsible for the brand image and style, Jardini fulfilled the role of “creative witness”, keeping the stylistic and philosophical approach alive following the death of Franco Moschino (on 18 September 1994), with whom she collaborated from 1981.] In October 2013, Jeremy Scott became Moschino's creative director, showing his first Moschino collection in Fall 2014
In 2006, Moschino designed the outfits for the opening ceremony of the 2006 Winter Olympics in Turin. Moschino also designed outfits for Kylie Minogue's 2005 Showgirl - The Greatest Hits Tour, sunglasses for Madonna's 2008 Sticky & Sweet Tour and six outfits for Lady Gaga for her The Born This Way Ball in 2011-2012.
Starting with the F/W 2008-2009 pre-collection, the Moschino Jeans label changed its name to Love Moschino
The owner of the Moschino labels is Moschino SpA, the company which was acquired by Aeffe SpA (producer of Moschino since 1983) and Sportswear International SpA (SINV HOLDING S.p.A. since 2006) in 1999. Moschino SpA carries out its brand management, licensing agreement activities, communication and coordination of the commercial policies autonomously. In 2007, Moschino SpA signed an exclusive agreement with con Scienward International Holdings Limited for the franchising and distribution of its products in the People’s Republic of China (excluding Hong Kong and Macau). The ten-year agreement provides for the opening of forty stores (22 in the first five years of collaboration) and the exclusive distribution of Moschino brand clothing lines beginning with the S/S 2008 collection. Moschino SpA also announced its five-year renewable agreement with Allison for the creation, development and worldwide distribution of the new Moschino Eyewear collection, and the signing of a five-year agreement (renewable for another five years) with the Binda Group for the manufacture and marketing of watches and for the very first time of the jewellery collection licensed with the Moschino CheapAndChic brand. The new collection of Moschino Helmets was presented to the world for the first time in November 2007, during the EICMA show. These helmets were the result of a collaboration between Max Safety Fashion helmet manufacturers and the Moschino fashion brand.
In October 2008, Moschino SpA and Altana SpA, leading companies in the children’s clothing sector, announced the signing of an agreement for the creation, development and world distribution, for five years renewable, of the Moschino boys’ and girls’ collections. The collections, whose creative aspect remains at Moschino, were aimed at three age groups: Moschino Teen for ages six through fourteen; Moschino Kid for twelve–eighteen months to six years; and Moschino Baby from one–three months to two years.
In July 2011, the company collection was presented at the catwalk of The Brandery fashion show in Barcelona.
In February 2014, WWD announced that Angela Missoni hired Rossella Jardini, who is the former creative director of Moschino, as a consultant, ""to exchange ideas" on her fashion collections". Angela Missoni will continue to be creative director of Missoni
Labels
The brand consists of several labels: Moschino (women's and men's main line), Moschino Cheap and Chic (women's secondary line, created in 1988), Love Moschino (women's and men's diffusion line, known as Moschino Jeans from 1986 to 2008), in order of exclusivity. In addition, accessoriesjewelrywatchesperfume and cosmetics, and even jet helmets are sold under the Moschino brand. Almost all models of watches are made by Binda Group. In Milan, Moschino opened its own concept hotel in 2009, "Maison Moschino

Starting 2014 and under the direction of creative director Jeremy Scott, Moschino Cheap and Chic was consolidated into a new women's secondary line called Boutique Moschino.
Collaborations
In April 2018, Moschino announced its collaboration with the Swedish retail brand H&M which was planned to be launched in November 2018


Founder – Biography



        
Franco Moschino was born on February 27, 1950 in Abbiatragrasse, Italy. At eighteen he attended the Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera in Milan to study art for about two years. (Stegemeyer 270). He found jobs as an illustrator for several magazines such as Gap, Linea Italiana, andHarper's Bazar which opened doors to working with Gianni Versace and Giorgio Armani soon after. For five years he worked on designs for Cadette's collections until he established his first womenswear collection in 1983. It was through his never before seen suggestive ways of presentation that he established his "bad boy" image to the press. (Casadio 121).
        In 1986, Moschino's first menswear collection was showcased as well as his more affordable collection, Cheap & Chic, two years later. For the next few years Moschino's label was reaching it's peak. He opened the first Moschino boutique in Milan in 1989 and the following year was awarded the Golden Needle award which is the most prestigious Spanish fashion prize. Casadio 123). In 1993 the garments for the 1994 Couture! collection were produced in celebration of the brand's tenth-year anniversary when only one year later on September 18, 1994 Franco Moschino passed away. Rossella Jardini took over the label after his death and still holds his title to this day, introducing new concepts along the way such as the Franco Moschino Foundation, the Love Moschino denim line, and more fragrance, lingerie, and accessory lines. (The Cut).

Critical Analysis       
       The zeitgeist of Franco Moschino's time was very routine and methodical. Fashion had fallen into a trance of predictable seasons and collections that Moschino took as an example of what he did not want to be a part of. Rather then becoming victim to the fashion system, the designer wanted to create an avant-garde art movement and adventure that would bring a new light to the forms society has created in the world around us. (Casadio 17). He believed that clothing was meant to be fun, creating his collections based off irreverence, irony, and eccentric wit. He introduced freedom of expression to cultural fashion; he gave styling concepts a humorous and ironic interpretation. Designers such as Chanel, Burberry, and Louis Vuitton influenced Moschino, but not in common ways. He looked to these fashion icons and their signatures not to try and replicate them, but to interpret them in his own way. Moschino would feed off the designers and trends around him to see how he could translate them into something more realistic. For inspiration on the structure and aesthetic of his garments he turned to costumes of classical theatre and seventeenth-century avant-garde. (Casadio 19).
       Moschino created a label that used personality and innovation to break away from the constraints of traditional fashion. Each runway show had a different concept and edge to it. Rather then simply showcasing his garments, he used shows as an opportunity to communicate concepts and messages. He emphasized slogans such as "To be, or not to be, that's fashion!", "Love has no colours", "You can't judge a girl by her clothes", and "Stop the fashion system". (Casadio 30). His many phrases became the face of the Moschino label, turning words into "black-and-white conceptual icons, creating visual puns" (Casadio 15). He never considered himself a designer, but more of an artist bringing light to the world around those who were open minded to his concepts. His artistic influences gave him the ability to create a brand that establishes a distinct line between fashion conformity and personal self-expression. Ultimately, Moschino's opposition of the fashion system ironically brought him fame in that very thing. (Stegemeyer 270).

      
Future Trends
       Trends were something that Franco Moschino actually opposed. His ironic interpretations of the styling concepts that fashion dictated were what set him apart and ultimately helped eliminate the idea that fashion must be original and serious. Although he insisted on going against the fashion system, he has become a great influence to it. His conceptual ideas of having fashion be about the personality of the consumer as well as providing a foundation for technique and sophistication has influenced many. The humor, irony, and wit that he brought to his collections and ultimately the fashion world will live on forever and be seen in many designers' labels. His ability to create conceptual and meaningful garments gave him the title of philosopher. His skillful technique and wearable structure gave him the title of artisan. While giving personality to his consumers, he also gave them clothing that gave them a sense of comfort and security in themselves. Those aspects are something designers really look to when establishing what kind of brand they want to encompass.


Moschino Selling stores:

Moschino


Net a Porter

Elilhaam



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